GEDSER TO FEHMARN (Germany) – 32 miles
Day 85 Wednesday, 29th August 2018
Hooray! Sailed all the way between Gedser and Fehmarn. The wind is coming from the east and south east, so we can sail on a beam reach. We see ships going to the north of the island of Fehmarn towards the Kiel Canal and many windfarms off the Danish island of Lolland. However, we’re in racing mode and most satisfyingly, we beat the Germans!
We goosewing at the end as we enter the Fehmarn Sund. The distinctive three tower blocks tell us that we’re nearly there. There are lots of kitesurfers to our left as we enter the channel.
The combined road and rail bridge connecting the island to the mainland is only 22 metres high, and the channel from the east is only 5m deep which is why the big ships have to go round the top. They’re going to build a tunnel to the island of Langeland in Denmark, connecting the island of Fehmarn to Denmark, but to date there’s only a ferry.
We’re a bit disappointed by the marina in Burgstaaken. The ‘pontoon’ moorings we anticipated are only wooden beams about 9” wide. Fortunately, someone comes to take our ropes and even ventures out onto the ‘pontoon’ to loop the stern line round a cleat. It’s a long climb down onto the main pontoon. The Harbour master doesn’t speak English – not like the Danes and Swedes we’ve got used to – and says we’re in a short berth. We’re not going to change! He says it’s his job to operate the crane for the lift-out. And what’s more he doesn’t do cards! We have to pay in actual Euros. We’ve been paying for everything in Denmark and Sweden by card. The facilities are small – two toilets and two showers in a portacabin – and there’s now a washing machine but no drier. I was hoping to do a big wash here. Just to have to hang out our washing on the guard rails – but not tomorrow, as the forecast is rain all day. Burg, the capital of Fehmarn, is a holiday town with some old houses.
Well – we’re here in Fehmarn. The end of our trip, two days earlier than planned because of the dire weather forecasts.
We’ve done 1500 miles and visited 46 new ports this summer – and managed to try out all sorts of different moorings! We both think the major highlight has been for all our family to come out to Stockholm and stay at Tyreso. We loved taking them out on the boat from our beautiful moorings at Café Notholmen.
Other highlights were Uto, the anchorage in Harstina, Visby on Gotland, and seeing the sights in Karlskrona and Kalmar in Sweden. We really appreciated having Hilary Thorpe on board in Denmark: the magical island of Aero and the white cliffs at Rodvig. And Hilary diving to look at the missing propeller in Dragor! And of course, we loved having Jill and Denis on board from Amsterdam to Leeuwarden, where we met up with our very hospitable friends, Eric and Angie, from Whitby.
We’ve made lots of friends on this trip too: Bob and Gillian on ‘Morning Star’, Andy and Pauline on ‘Odile’, Richard and Linda on ‘Seahorse of the Solent’, Kersten and Dorthe on ‘Marianne’ and lastly Max and Lynnie on ‘Juanona’, and Nick Hill on ‘Prospero’ – who we hope to see next year on the 2019 Baltic rally.
So it’s goodbye for this year. We’ll be flying home on Tuesday, 4th September, having been lifted out on Monday morning. Plenty of jobs to do over the next few days, so I’m going to sign off today.
Thank you all so much for reading this year’s Blog. Next year we’re hoping to visit more of Germany, Poland, the Baltic States of Latvia, Lithuania and Estonia, and Finland, with a side trip to St. Petersburg. Watch this space!